The supply lists here draw on the American Kennel Club's new puppy checklist and the PDSA's new puppy checklist, a UK veterinary charity. UK legal requirements are taken from GOV.UK.
Most new puppy checklists are shopping lists, and most shopping lists are too long. The things that make the first weeks go well are mostly decisions, not purchases: where the puppy sleeps, who gets up at 3 a.m., which vet you are registered with, and which parts of the house the puppy can reach. This guide starts there, then gets to the shopping, then walks through the first day, night, and week.
Make these decisions before the puppy arrives
Every one of these is harder to decide at midnight with a crying puppy in your arms.
- Where the puppy sleeps. Choose the long-term spot now, and decide whether the puppy starts near your bed for the first nights and moves there gradually. Changing the plan night by night is what unsettles a puppy.
- Who does night-time toilet trips. Young puppies usually need to go out overnight. If nobody has agreed who does it, it tends not to get done.
- Which rooms are open. Start with one small, fully puppy-proofed area and expand later. It is far easier than guarding a whole house.
- Household rules. Sofa or not? Bedroom or not? Everyone needs the same answer, or the puppy learns that rules are negotiable.
- Which vet you will use. The PDSA suggests finding a nearby vet to register with before your puppy comes home, so the first appointment is not a scramble.
- Insurance. The PDSA recommends arranging cover early. Check whether a policy has a waiting period before cover starts.
- Who is home, and when. Plan the first week so the puppy is not left alone for long stretches while they are still learning the new place.
The puppy-proofing checklist covers the hazards room by room. Do that before arrival day too: it is much harder to spot a trailing cable when there is already a puppy chewing it.
What to buy, and what can wait
The AKC and PDSA lists overlap heavily. Here they are sorted by when you actually need each item, which is the part both leave out.
Needed on day one
- A crate or playpen. The AKC lists a crate as a housetraining tool, and a pen gives a safe space when you cannot watch. Size a crate so your puppy can stand, turn, and lie down. The crate training guide covers setup and introduction.
- Bedding that can be washed or replaced, because it will be chewed or soiled.
- The food your puppy already eats. Ask the breeder or shelter what and how much. Changing food on day one adds a stomach upset to a stressful week. The feeding schedule guide explains portions and meal frequency for later.
- Food and water bowls.
- A collar with an ID tag. In the UK, the PDSA notes that a collar and tag is a legal requirement.
- A harness and a lightweight leash. The AKC points out that a harness avoids tugging on the neck while a puppy is still lunging on walks.
- Chews and teething toys. The AKC notes that teething toys are different from ordinary dog toys because they are designed to relieve sore gums. Have several, so there is always a legal thing to chew.
- Enzyme cleaner and paper towels. There will be accidents. PetMD explains that the smell left behind can encourage a dog to go in the same spot again, and that enzymatic cleaners break down the compounds responsible rather than masking them.
- Poop bags.
- A car restraint for the journey home, such as a secured carrier or crate. The PDSA includes car restraint on its checklist. The road trip guide covers restraint options and practice drives.
- Baby gates to close off stairs and unproofed rooms.
Useful within the first few weeks
- A soft brush, so grooming becomes routine while the puppy is small
- Dog toothpaste and a puppy toothbrush, both on the PDSA list
- A food-dispensing toy or snuffle mat for enrichment
- A long line for early recall practice, once your puppy is going out
- Treat pouch and small soft training treats
Worth waiting on
- An expensive bed. Puppies chew beds. Buy a good one once the chewing phase has calmed down.
- A large toy collection. Rotate a few. Twenty toys on the floor are less interesting than three that change.
- Anything sized for the adult dog. The crate training guide warns against a crate so large that a puppy can sleep in one end and toilet in the other. If you buy for adult size, use a divider for now.
Paperwork and identification
Collect these at handover, not later:
- Vaccination and health records from the breeder or shelter, including dates of any vaccines, worming, or parasite treatments already given.
- Microchip details. In the UK, all dogs must be microchipped and registered by eight weeks old, so a puppy collected there should already be chipped. Make sure the registration is updated to your name and contact details, because owners are responsible for keeping it current. In the US, Canada, and Australia, microchip and licensing rules vary by state, province, or local council, so check what applies where you live.
- Food details: brand, amount, and times.
- A blanket or toy from the litter, if the breeder or shelter can give you one. A familiar smell helps on the first night.
The first day: an hour-by-hour shape
The PDSA's settling-in advice comes down to two instructions: take your time, and give them space. In practice, day one should be much quieter than anyone in the house wants it to be.
- Toilet first. Before going inside, carry your puppy to the spot you want them to use, and wait. Praise quietly if they go.
- One room, calm people. Let the puppy explore the prepared area at their own pace. No visitors today.
- Offer a small meal at the time they are used to eating, not immediately after arrival.
- Let them sleep. Young puppies sleep far more than new owners expect, and an overtired puppy is the one who bites, cries, and cannot settle. The puppy sleep schedule sets out how much sleep to plan for by age.
- Take them out often, especially after waking, eating, and playing. The potty training guide has a full schedule.
- Keep introductions short. Children should sit on the floor and let the puppy come to them, and interactions should end while the puppy is still happy.
The first night
Expect it to be hard. A puppy who has always slept with littermates is suddenly alone, and some crying is normal.
- Put the crate or bed close to you for the first nights, so the puppy can hear and smell you. Many people move it gradually to its permanent spot over the following weeks.
- Plan the night toilet trip. Take the puppy out calmly, with no play, and straight back to bed.
- Respond to real needs, not to every sound. A puppy who has just been out and settles again within a minute or two is adjusting. A puppy who is escalating, or who has not been out for a while, may need to go.
The crate training guide covers night-time crate use in detail.
The first week
The goal of the first week is predictability, not progress. The PDSA recommends a consistent routine for meals, play, and sleep, and clear boundaries from day one.
- Same times every day for meals, toilet trips, naps, and bedtime.
- Short training sessions, a minute or two at a time, using rewards. Name, sit, and coming to you are plenty for week one.
- Start gentle handling: touching paws, ears, and mouth briefly, followed by a treat. This makes later nail trims, vet exams, and grooming far easier.
- Begin socialization carefully. The window for positive early experiences is short, and it matters. The puppy socialization guide explains how to do this safely before vaccinations are complete.
- Expect biting. Puppy mouthing is normal and usually worse when a puppy is tired. The puppy biting guide has a humane plan.
The first vet visit
The PDSA advises booking a vet appointment promptly for vaccinations and parasite treatment. Book it within the first few days, even if the puppy seems healthy, so your vet can check them over and set a plan.
Bring:
- Every record the breeder or shelter gave you
- A list of questions, such as vaccine timing, parasite prevention, neutering, and when it is safe to start puppy classes
- A few small treats, so the clinic becomes a place where good things happen
The vaccination schedule guide explains how core vaccines are usually timed, so the vet's plan makes sense when you hear it.
Common first-week mistakes
- Too many visitors. Everyone wants to meet the puppy. Spread visits over weeks, not days.
- Too much freedom. A puppy loose in the whole house has accidents you do not see and chews things you do not notice. Start small and expand.
- Too little sleep. An overtired puppy is not a naughty puppy. Build naps into the routine.
- Changing food straight away. Keep what they are used to for the first days at least.
- Punishing accidents. It teaches a puppy to toilet where you cannot see them, which makes house training slower.
FAQ
What is the single most important thing to have before my puppy arrives?
A safe place to put them when you cannot watch them, which usually means a crate or pen in a puppy-proofed area. Almost every other problem in the first weeks is easier to manage once that exists.
Should I get a crate or a playpen?
Both work, and many people use both: a pen for daytime when you are nearby but busy, and a crate for sleep. What matters is that the puppy has a safe space and is never shut in for longer than they can manage.
Can I take my new puppy out for walks straight away?
Not on public ground until your vet says it is safe, which depends on their vaccination schedule. You can still carry them to see the world, and they can explore your own yard if it is secure. The socialization guide explains how to use that time well.
How long does it take a new puppy to settle in?
Most puppies are noticeably more settled within the first week or two, though night-time crying and accidents take longer to fade. A calm, consistent routine speeds it up far more than extra attention does.
Is there anything I should not buy?
Hold off on the expensive bed, a big toy collection, and anything sized for the adult dog without a divider. Buy the day-one essentials, then add what your actual puppy turns out to need.
Sources
- American Kennel Club. New puppy checklist: gear you'll need for your new dog.
- PDSA. New puppy checklist.
- GOV.UK. Get your dog microchipped.
- PetMD. How to get dog pee out of carpet, floors, and couches.